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Resembling in
appearance all the wooden hostelries of the High Alps situated at
the foot of glaciers in the barren rocky gorges that intersect the
summits of the mountains, the Inn of Schwarenbach serves as a
resting place for travellers crossing the Gemini Pass.
It remains open for six months in the year and is inhabited by the
family of Jean Hauser; then, as soon as the snow begins to fall and
to fill the valley so as to make the road down to Loeche impassable,
the father and his three sons go away and leave the house in charge
of the old guide, Gaspard Hari, with the young guide, Ulrich Kunsi,
and Sam, the great mountain dog.
The two men and the dog remain till the spring in their snowy
prison, with nothing before their eyes except the immense white
slopes of the Balmhorn, surrounded by light, glistening summits, and
are shut in, blocked up and buried by the snow which rises around
them and which envelops, binds and crushes the little house, which
lies piled on the roof, covering the windows and blocking up the
door.
It was the day on which the Hauser family were going to return to
Loeche, as winter was approaching, and the descent was becoming
dangerous. Three mules started first, laden with baggage and led by
the three sons. Then the mother, Jeanne Hauser, and her daughter
Louise mounted a fourth mule and set off in their turn and the
father followed them, accompanied by the two men in charge, who were
to escort the family as far as the brow of the descent. First of all
they passed round the small lake, which was now frozen over, at the
bottom of the mass of rocks which stretched in front of the inn, and
then they followed the valley, which was dominated on all sides by
the snow-covered summits.
A ray of sunlight fell into that little white, glistening, frozen
desert and illuminated it with a cold and dazzling flame. No living
thing appeared among this ocean of mountains. There was no motion in
this immeasurable solitude and no noise disturbed the profound
silence.
By degrees the young guide, Ulrich Kunsi, a tall, long-legged Swiss,
left old man Hauser and old Gaspard behind, in order to catch up the
mule which bore the two women. The younger one looked at him as he
approached and appeared to be calling him with her sad eyes. She was
a young, fairhaired little peasant girl, whose milk-white cheeks and
pale hair looked as if they had lost their color by their long abode
amid the ice. When he had got up to the animal she was riding he put
his hand on the crupper and relaxed his speed. Mother Hauser began
to talk to him, enumerating with the minutest details all that he
would have to attend to during the winter. It was the first time
that he was going to stay up there, while old Hari had already spent
fourteen winters amid the snow, at the inn of Schwarenbach.
Ulrich Kunsi listened, without appearing to understand and looked
incessantly at the girl. From time to time he replied: "Yes, Madame
Hauser," but his thoughts seemed far away and his calm features
remained unmoved.
They reached Lake Daube, whose broad, frozen surface extended to the
end of the valley. On the right one saw the black, pointed, rocky
summits of the Daubenhorn beside the enormous moraines of the
Lommern glacier, above which rose the Wildstrubel. As they
approached the Gemmi pass, where the descent of Loeche begins, they
suddenly beheld the immense horizon of the Alps of the Valais, from
which the broad, deep valley of the Rhone separated them.
In the distance there was a group of white, unequal, flat, or
pointed mountain summits, which glistened in the sun; the Mischabel
with its two peaks, the huge group of the Weisshorn, the heavy
Brunegghorn, the lofty and formidable pyramid of Mount Cervin, that
slayer of men, and the Dent- Blanche, that monstrous coquette.
Then beneath them, in a tremendous hole, at the bottom of a terrific
abyss, they perceived Loeche, where houses looked as grains of sand
which had been thrown into that enormous crevice that is ended and
closed by the Gemmi and which opens, down below, on the Rhone.
The mule stopped at the edge of the path, which winds and turns
continually, doubling backward, then, fantastically and strangely,
along the side of the mountain as far as the almost invisible little
village at its feet. The women jumped into the snow and the two old
men joined them. "Well," father Hauser said, "good-by, and keep up
your spirits till next year, my friends," and old Hari replied:
"Till next year."
They embraced each other and then Madame Hauser in her turn offered
her cheek, and the girl did the same.
When Ulrich Kunsi's turn came, he whispered in Louise's ear, "Do not
forget those up yonder," and she replied, "No," in such a low voice
that he guessed what she had said without hearing it. "Well, adieu,"
Jean Hauser repeated, "and don't fall ill." And going before the two
women, he commenced the descent, and soon all three disappeared at
the first turn in the road, while the two men returned to the inn at
Schwarenbach.
They walked slowly, side by side, without speaking. It was over, and
they would be alone together for four or five months. Then Gaspard
Hari began to relate his life last winter. He had remained with
Michael Canol, who was too old now to stand it, for an accident
might happen during that long solitude. They had not been dull,
however; the only thing was to make up one's mind to it from the
first, and in the end one would find plenty of distraction, games
and other means of whiling away the time.
Ulrich Kunsi listened to him with his eyes on the ground, for in his
thoughts he was following those who were descending to the village.
They soon came in sight of the inn, which was, however, scarcely
visible, so small did it look, a black speck at the foot of that
enormous billow of snow, and when they opened the door Sam, the
great curly dog, began to romp round them.
"Come, my boy," old Gaspard said, "we have no women now, so we must
get our own dinner ready. Go and peel the potatoes." And they both
sat down on wooden stools and began to prepare the soup.
The next morning seemed very long to Kunsi. Old Hari smoked and spat
on the hearth, while the young man looked out of the window at the
snow- covered mountain opposite the house.
In the afternoon he went out, and going over yesterday's ground
again, he looked for the traces of the mule that had carried the two
women. Then when he had reached the Gemmi Pass, he laid himself down
on his stomach and looked at Loeche.
The village, in its rocky pit, was not yet buried under the snow,
from which it was sheltered by the pine woods which protected it on
all sides. Its low houses looked like paving stones in a large
meadow from above. Hauser's little daughter was there now in one of
those gray-colored houses. In which? Ulrich Kunsi was too far away
to be able to make them out separately. How he would have liked to
go down while he was yet able!
But the sun had disappeared behind the lofty crest of the
Wildstrubel and the young man returned to the chalet. Daddy Hari was
smoking, and when he saw his mate come in he proposed a game of
cards to him, and they sat down opposite each other, on either side
of the table. They played for a long time a simple game called
brisque and then they had supper and went to bed.
The following days were like the first, bright and cold, without any
fresh snow. Old Gaspard spent his afternoons in watching the eagles
and other rare birds which ventured on those frozen heights, while
Ulrich returned regularly to the Gemmi Pass to look at the village.
Then they played cards, dice or dominoes and lost and won a trifle,
just to create an interest in the game.
One morning Hari, who was up first, called his companion. A moving,
deep and light cloud of white spray was falling on them noiselessly
and was by degrees burying them under a thick, heavy coverlet of
foam. That lasted four days and four nights. It was necessary to
free the door and the windows, to dig out a passage and to cut steps
to get over this frozen powder, which a twelve hours' frost had made
as hard as the granite of the moraines.
They lived like prisoners and did not venture outside their abode.
They had divided their duties, which they performed regularly.
Ulrich Kunsi undertook the scouring, washing and everything that
belonged to cleanliness. He also chopped up the wood while Gaspard
Hari did the cooking and attended to the fire. Their regular and
monotonous work was interrupted by long games at cards or dice, and
they never quarrelled, but were always calm and placid. They were
never seen impatient or ill- humored, nor did they ever use hard
words, for they had laid in a stock of patience for their wintering
on the top of the mountain.
Sometimes old Gaspard took his rifle and went after chamois, and
occasionally he killed one. Then there was a feast in the inn at
Schwarenbach and they revelled in fresh meat. One morning he went
out as usual. The thermometer outside marked eighteen degrees of
frost, and as the sun had not yet risen, the hunter hoped to
surprise the animals at the approaches to the Wildstrubel, and
Ulrich, being alone, remained in bed until ten o'clock. He was of a
sleepy nature, but he would not have dared to give way like that to
his inclination in the presence of the old guide, who was ever an
early riser. He breakfasted leisurely with Sam, who also spent his
days and nights in sleeping in front of the fire; then he felt
low-spirited and even frightened at the solitude, and was-seized by
a longing for his daily game of cards, as one is by the craving of a
confirmed habit, and so he went out to meet his companion, who was
to return at four o'clock.
The snow had levelled the whole deep valley, filled up the
crevasses, obliterated all signs of the two lakes and covered the
rocks, so that between the high summits there was nothing but an
immense, white, regular, dazzling and frozen surface. For three
weeks Ulrich had not been to the edge of the precipice from which he
had looked down on the village, and he wanted to go there before
climbing the slopes which led to Wildstrubel. Loeche was now also
covered by the snow and the houses could scarcely be distinguished,
covered as they were by that white cloak.
Then, turning to the right, he reached the Loemmern glacier. He went
along with a mountaineer's long strides, striking the snow, which
was as hard as a rock, with his ironpointed stick, and with his
piercing eyes he looked for the little black, moving speck in the
distance, on that enormous, white expanse.
When he reached the end of the glacier he stopped and asked himself
whether the old man had taken that road, and then he began to walk
along the moraines with rapid and uneasy steps. The day was
declining, the snow was assuming a rosy tint, and a dry, frozen wind
blew in rough gusts over its crystal surface. Ulrich uttered a long,
shrill, vibrating call. His voice sped through the deathlike silence
in which the mountains were sleeping; it reached the distance,
across profound and motionless waves of glacial foam, like the cry
of a bird across the waves of the sea. Then it died away and nothing
answered him.
He began to walk again. The sun had sunk yonder behind the mountain
tops, which were still purple with the reflection from the sky, but
the depths of the valley were becoming gray, and suddenly the young
man felt frightened. It seemed to him as if the silence, the cold,
the solitude, the winter death of these mountains were taking
possession of him, were going to stop and to freeze his blood, to
make his limbs grow stiff and to turn him into a motionless and
frozen object, and he set off running, fleeing toward his dwelling.
The old man, he thought, would have returned during his absence. He
had taken another road; he would, no doubt, be sitting before the
fire, with a dead chamois at his feet. He soon came in sight of the
inn, but no smoke rose from it. Ulrich walked faster and opened the
door. Sam ran up to him to greet him, but Gaspard Hari had not
returned. Kunsi, in his alarm, turned round suddenly, as if he had
expected to find his comrade hidden in a corner. Then he relighted
the fire and made the soup, hoping every moment to see the old man
come in. From time to time he went out to see if he were not coming.
It was quite night now, that wan, livid night of the mountains,
lighted by a thin, yellow crescent moon, just disappearing behind
the mountain tops.
Then the young man went in and sat down to warm his hands and feet,
while he pictured to himself every possible accident. Gaspard might
have broken a leg, have fallen into a crevasse, taken a false step
and dislocated his ankle. And, perhaps, he was lying on the snow,
overcome and stiff with the cold, in agony of mind, lost and,
perhaps, shouting for help, calling with all his might in the
silence of the night.. But where? The mountain was so vast, so
rugged, so dangerous in places, especially at that time of the year,
that it would have required ten or twenty guides to walk for a week
in all directions to find a man in that immense space. Ulrich Kunsi,
however, made up his mind to set out with Sam if Gaspard did not
return by one in the morning, and he made his preparations.
He put provisions for two days into a bag, took his steel climbing
iron, tied a long, thin, strong rope round his waist, and looked to
see that his ironshod stick and his axe, which served to cut steps
in the ice, were in order. Then he waited. The fire was burning on
the hearth, the great dog was snoring in front of it, and the clock
was ticking, as regularly as a heart beating, in its resounding
wooden case. He waited, with his ears on the alert for distant
sounds, and he shivered when the wind blew against the roof and the
walls. It struck twelve and he trembled: Then, frightened and
shivering, he put some water on the fire, so that he might have some
hot coffee before starting, and when the clock struck one he got up,
woke Sam, opened the door and went off in the direction of the
Wildstrubel. For five hours he mounted, scaling the rocks by means
of his climbing irons, cutting into the ice, advancing continually,
and occasionally hauling up the dog, who remained below at the foot
of some slope that was too steep for him, by means of the rope. It
was about six o'clock when he reached one of the summits to which
old Gaspard often came after chamois, and he waited till it should
be daylight.
The sky was growing pale overhead, and a strange light, springing
nobody could tell whence, suddenly illuminated the immense ocean of
pale mountain summits, which extended for a hundred leagues around
him. One might have said that this vague brightness arose from the
snow itself and spread abroad in space. By degrees the highest
distant summits assumed a delicate, pink flesh color, and the red
sun appeared behind the ponderous giants of the Bernese Alps.
Ulrich Kunsi set off again, walking like a hunter, bent over,
looking for tracks, and saying to his dog: "Seek, old fellow, seek!"
He was descending the mountain now, scanning the depths closely, and
from time to time shouting, uttering aloud, prolonged cry, which
soon died away in that silent vastness. Then he put his ear to the
ground to listen. He thought he could distinguish a voice, and he
began to run and shouted again, but he heard nothing more and sat
down, exhausted and in despair. Toward midday he breakfasted and
gave Sam, who was as tired as himself, something to eat also, and
then he recommenced his search.
When evening came he was still walking, and he had walked more than
thirty miles over the mountains. As he was too far away to return
home and too tired to drag himself along any further, he dug a hole
in the snow and crouched in it with his dog under a blanket which he
had brought with him. And the man and the dog lay side by side,
trying to keep warm, but frozen to the marrow nevertheless. Ulrich
scarcely slept, his mind haunted by visions and his limbs shaking
with cold.
Day was breaking when he got up. His legs were as stiff as iron bars
and his spirits so low that he was ready to cry with anguish, while
his heart was beating so that he almost fell over with agitation,
when he thought he heard a noise.
Suddenly he imagined that he also was going to die of cold in the
midst of this vast solitude, and the terror of such a death roused
his energies and gave him renewed vigor. He was descending toward
the inn, falling down and getting up again, and followed at a
distance by Sam, who was limping on three legs, and they did not
reach Schwarenbach until four o'clock in the afternoon. The house
was empty and the young man made a fire, had something to eat and
went to sleep, so worn out that he did not think of anything more.
He slept for a long time, for a very long time, an irresistible
sleep. But suddenly a voice, a cry, a name, "Ulrich!" aroused him
from his profound torpor and made him sit up in bed. Had he been
dreaming? Was it one of those strange appeals which cross the dreams
of disquieted minds? No, he heard it still, that reverberating
cry-which had entered his ears and remained in his flesh-to the tips
of his sinewy fingers. Certainly somebody had cried out and called
"Ulrich!" There was somebody there near the house, there could be no
doubt of that, and he opened the door and shouted, "Is it you,
Gaspard?" with all the strength of his lungs. But there was no
reply, no murmur, no groan, nothing. It was quite dark and the snow
looked wan.
The wind had risen, that icy wind that cracks the rocks and leaves
nothing alive on those deserted heights, and it came in sudden
gusts, which were more parching and more deadly than the burning
wind of the desert, and again Ulrich shouted: "Gaspard! Gaspard!
Gaspard." And then he waited again. Everything was silent on the
mountain.
Then he shook with terror and with a bound he was inside the inn,
when he shut and bolted the door, and then he fell into a chair
trembling all over, for he felt certain that his comrade had called
him at the moment he was expiring.
He was sure of that, as sure as one is of being alive or of eating a
piece of bread. Old Gaspard Hari had been dying for two days and
three nights somewhere, in some hole, in one of those deep,
untrodden ravines whose whiteness is more sinister than subterranean
darkness. He had been dying for two days and three nights and be had
just then died, thinking of his comrade. His soul, almost before it
was released, had taken its flight to the inn where Ulrich was
sleeping, and it had called him by that terrible and mysterious
power which the spirits of the dead have to haunt the living. That
voiceless soul had cried to the worn-out soul of the sleeper; it had
uttered its last farewell, or its reproach, or its curse on the man
who had not searched carefully enough.
And Ulrich felt that it was there, quite close to him, behind the
wall, behind the door which be had just fastened. It was wandering
about, like a night bird which lightly touches a lighted window with
his wings, and the terrified young man was ready to scream with
horror. He wanted to run away, but did not dare to go out; he did
not dare, and he should never dare to do it in the future, for that
phantom would remain there day and night, round the inn, as long as
the old man's body was not recovered and had not been deposited in
the consecrated earth of a churchyard.
When it was daylight Kunsi recovered some of his courage at the
return of the bright sun. He prepared his meal, gave his dog some
food and then remained motionless on a chair, tortured at heart as
he thought of the old man lying on the snow, and then, as soon as
night once more covered the mountains, new terrors assailed him. He
now walked up and down the dark kitchen, which was scarcely lighted
by the flame of one candle, and he walked from one end of it to the
other with great strides, listening, listening whether the terrible
cry of the other night would again break the dreary silence outside.
He felt himself alone, unhappy man, as no man had ever been alone
before! He was alone in this immense desert of Snow, alone five
thousand feet above the inhabited earth, above human habitation,
above that stirring, noisy, palpitating life, alone under an icy
sky! A mad longing impelled him to run away, no matter where, to get
down to Loeche by flinging himself over the precipice; but he did
not even dare to open the door, as he felt sure that the other, the
dead man, would bar his road, so that he might not be obliged to
remain up there alone:
Toward midnight, tired with walking, worn out by grief and fear, he
at last fell into a doze in his chair, for he was afraid of his bed
as one is of a haunted spot. But suddenly the strident cry of the
other evening pierced his ears, and it was so shrill that Ulrich
stretched out his arms to repulse the ghost, and he fell backward
with his chair.
Sam, who was awakened by the noise, began to howl as frightened dogs
do howl, and he walked all about the house trying to find out where
the danger came from. When he got to the door, he sniffed beneath
it, smelling vigorously, with his coat bristling and his tail stiff,
while he growled angrily. Kunsi, who was terrified, jumped up, and,
holding his chair by one leg, he cried: "Don't come in, don't come
in, or I shall kill you." And the dog, excited by this threat,
barked angrily at that invisible enemy who defied his master's
voice. By degrees, however, he quieted down and came back and
stretched himself in front of the fire, but he was uneasy and kept
his head up and growled between his teeth.
Ulrich, in turn, recovered his senses, but as he felt faint with
terror, he went and got a bottle of brandy out of the sideboard, and
he drank off several glasses, one after anther, at a gulp. His ideas
became vague, his courage revived and a feverish glow ran through
his veins.
He ate scarcely anything the next day and limited himself to
alcohol, and so he lived for several days, like a drunken brute. As
soon as he thought of Gaspard Hari, he began to drink again, and
went on drinking until he fell to the ground, overcome by
intoxication. And there he remained lying on his face, dead drunk,
his limbs benumbed, and snoring loudly. But scarcely had he digested
the maddening and burning liquor than the same cry, "Ulrich!" woke
him like a bullet piercing his brain, and he got up, still
staggering, stretching out his hands to save himself from falling,
and calling to Sam to help him. And the dog, who appeared to be
going mad like his master, rushed to the door, scratched it with his
claws and gnawed it with his long white teeth, while the young man,
with his head thrown back drank the brandy in draughts, as if it had
been cold water, so that it might by and by send his thoughts, his
frantic terror, and his memory to sleep again.
In three weeks he had consumed all his stock of ardent spirits. But
his continual drunkenness only lulled his terror, which awoke more
furiously than ever as soon as it was impossible for him to calm it.
His fixed idea then, which had been intensified by a month of
drunkenness, and which was continually increasing in his absolute
solitude, penetrated him like a gimlet. He now walked about the
house like a wild beast in its cage, putting his ear to the door to
listen if the other were there and defying him through the wall.
Then, as soon as he dozed, overcome by fatigue, he heard the voice
which made him leap to his feet.
At last one night, as cowards do when driven to extremities, he
sprang to the door and opened it, to see who was calling him and to
force him to keep quiet, but such a gust of cold wind blew into his
face that it chilled him to the bone, and he closed and bolted the
door again immediately, without noticing that Sam had rushed out.
Then, as he was shivering with cold, he threw some wood on the fire
and sat down in front of it to warm himself, but suddenly he
started, for somebody was scratching at the wall and crying. In
desperation he called out: "Go away!" but was answered by another
long, sorrowful wail.
Then all his remaining senses forsook him from sheer fright. He
repeated: "Go away!" and turned round to try to find some corner in
which to hide, while the other person went round the house still
crying and rubbing against the wall. Ulrich went to the oak
sideboard, which was full of plates and dishes and of provisions,
and lifting it up with superhuman strength, he dragged it to the
door, so as to form a barricade. Then piling up all the rest of the
furniture, the mattresses, palliasses and chairs, he stopped up the
windows as one does when assailed by an enemy.
But the person outside now uttered long, plaintive, mournful groans,
to which the young man replied by similar groans, and thus days and
nights passed without their ceasing to howl at each other. The one
was continually walking round the house and scraped the walls with
his nails so vigorously that it seemed as if he wished to destroy
them, while the other, inside, followed all his movements, stooping
down and holding his ear to the walls and replying to all his
appeals with terrible cries. One evening, however, Ulrich heard
nothing more, and he sat down, so overcome by fatigue, that he went
to sleep immediately and awoke in the morning without a thought,
without any recollection of what had happened, just as if his head
had been emptied during his heavy sleep, but he felt hungry, and he
ate.
The winter was over and the Gemmi Pass was practicable again, so the
Hauser family started off to return to their inn. As soon as they
had reached the top of the ascent the women mounted their mule and
spoke about the two men whom they would meet again shortly. They
were, indeed, rather surprised that neither of them had come down a
few days before, as soon as the road was open, in order to tell them
all about their long winter sojourn. At last, however, they saw the
inn, still covered with snow, like a quilt. The door and the window
were closed, but a little smoke was coming out of the chimney, which
reassured old Hauser. On going up to the door, however, he saw the
skeleton of an animal which had been torn to pieces by the eagles, a
large skeleton lying on its side.
They all looked close at it and the mother said:
"That must be Sam," and then she shouted: "Hi, Gaspard!" A cry from
the interior of the house answered her and a sharp cry that one
might have thought some animal had uttered it. Old Hauser repeated,
"Hi, Gaspard!" and they heard another cry similar to the first.
Then the three men, the father and the two sons, tried to open the
door, but it resisted their efforts. From the empty cow-stall they
took a beam to serve as a battering-ram and hurled it against the
door with all their might. The wood gave way and the boards flew
into splinters. Then the house was shaken by a loud voice, and
inside, behind the side board which was overturned, they saw a man
standing upright, with his hair falling on his shoulders and a beard
descending to his breast, with shining eyes, and nothing but rags to
cover him. They did not recognize him, but Louise Hauser exclaimed:
"It is Ulrich, mother." And her mother declared that it was Ulrich,
although his hair was white.
He allowed them to go up to him and to touch him, but he did not
reply to any of their questions, and they were obliged to take him
to Loeche, where the doctors found that he was mad, and nobody ever
found out what had become of his companion.
Little Louise Hauser nearly died that summer of decline, which the
physicians attributed to the cold air of the mountains.