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Meetings that are
unexpected constitute the charm of traveling. Who has not
experienced the joy of suddenly coming across a Parisian, a college
friend, or a neighbor, five hundred miles from home? Who has not
passed a night awake in one of those small, rattling country
stagecoaches, in regions where steam is still a thing unknown,
beside a strange young woman, of whom one has caught only a glimpse
in the dim light of the lantern, as she entered the carriage in
front of a white house in some small country town?
And the next morning, when one's head and ears feel numb with the
continuous tinkling of the bells and the loud rattling of the
windows, what a charming sensation it is to see your pretty neighbor
open her eyes, startled, glance around her, arrange her rebellious
hair with her slender fingers, adjust her hat, feel with sure hand
whether her corset is still in place, her waist straight, and her
skirt not too wrinkled.
She glances at you coldly and curiously. Then she leans back and no
longer seems interested in anything but the country.
In spite of yourself, you watch her; and in spite of yourself you
keep on thinking of her. Who is she? Whence does she come? Where is
she going? In spite of yourself you spin a little romance around
her. She is pretty; she seems charming! Happy he who . . . Life
might be delightful with her. Who knows? She is perhaps the woman of
our dreams, the one suited to our disposition, the one for whom our
heart calls.
And how delicious even the disappointment at seeing her get out at
the gate of a country house! A man stands there, who is awaiting
her, with two children and two maids. He takes her in his arms and
kisses as he lifts her out. Then she stoops over the little ones,
who hold up their hands to her; she kisses them tenderly; and then
they all go away together, down a path, while the maids catch the
packages which the driver throws down to them from the coach.
Adieu! It is all over. You never will see her again! Adieu to the
young woman who has passed the night by your side. You know her no
more, you have not spoken to her; all the same, you feel a little
sad to see her go. Adieu!
I have had many of these souvenirs of travel, some joyous and some
sad.
Once I was in Auvergne, tramping through those delightful French
mountains, that are not too high, not too steep, but friendly and
familiar. I had climbed the Sancy, and entered a little inn, near a
pilgrim's chapel called Notre-Dame de Vassiviere, when I saw a
queer, ridiculous-looking old woman breakfasting alone at the end
table.
She was at least seventy years old, tall, skinny, and angular, and
her white hair was puffed around her temples in the old-fashioned
style. She was dressed like a traveling Englishwoman, in awkward,
queer clothing, like a person who is indifferent to dress. She was
eating an omelet and drinking water.
Her face was peculiar, with restless eyes and the expression of one
with whom fate has dealt unkindly. I watched her, in spite of
myself, thinking: "Who is she? What is the life of this woman? Why
is she wandering alone through these mountains?"
She paid and rose to leave, drawing up over her shoulders an
astonishing little shawl, the two ends of which hung over her arms.
From a corner of the room she took an alpenstock, which was covered
with names traced with a hot iron; then she went out, straight,
erect, with the long steps of a letter-carrier who is setting out on
his route.
A guide was waiting for her at the door, and both went away. I
watched them go down the valley, along the road marked by a line of
high wooden crosses. She was taller than her companion, and seemed
to walk faster than he.
Two hours later I was climbing the edge of the deep funnel that
incloses Lake Pavin in a marvelous and enormous basin of verdure,
full of trees, bushes, rocks, and flowers. This lake is so round
that it seems as if the outline had been drawn with a pair of
compasses, so clear and blue that one might deem it a flood of azure
come down from the sky, so charming that one would like to live in a
but on the wooded slope which dominates this crater, where the cold,
still water is sleeping. The Englishwoman was standing there like a
statue, gazing upon the transparent sheet down in the dead volcano.
She was straining her eyes to penetrate below the surface down to
the unknown depths, where monstrous trout which have devoured all
the other fish are said to live. As I was passing close by her, it
seemed to me that two big tears were brimming her eyes. But she
departed at a great pace, to rejoin her guide, who had stayed behind
in an inn at the foot of the path leading to the lake.
I did not see her again that day.
The next day, at nightfall, I came to the chateau of Murol. The old
fortress, an enormous tower standing on a peak in the midst of a
large valley, where three valleys intersect, rears its brown,
uneven, cracked surface into the sky; it is round, from its large
circular base to the crumbling turrets on its pinnacles.
It astonishes the eye more than any other ruin by its simple mass,
its majesty, its grave and imposing air of antiquity. It stands
there, alone, high as a mountain, a dead queen, but still the queen
of the valleys stretched out beneath it. You go up by a slope
planted with firs, then you enter a narrow gate, and stop at the
foot of the walls, in the first inclosure, in full view of the
entire country.
Inside there are ruined halls, crumbling stairways, unknown
cavities, dungeons, walls cut through in the middle, vaulted roofs
held up one knows not how, and a mass of stones and crevices,
overgrown with grass, where animals glide in and out.
I was exploring this ruin alone.
Suddenly I perceived behind a bit of wall a being, a kind of
phantom, like the spirit of this ancient and crumbling habitation.
I was taken aback with surprise, almost with fear, when I recognized
the old lady whom I had seen twice.
She was weeping, with big tears in her eyes, and held her
handkerchief in her hand.
I turned around to go away, when she spoke to me, apparently ashamed
to have been surprised in her grief.
"Yes, monsieur, I am crying. That does not happen often to me."
"Pardon me, madame, for having disturbed you," I stammered,
confused, not knowing what to say. "Some misfortune has doubtless
come to you."
"Yes. No--I am like a lost dog," she murmured, and began to sob,
with her handkerchief over her eyes.
Moved by these contagious tears, I took her hand, trying to calm
her. Then brusquely she told me her history, as if no longer ably to
bear her grief alone.
"Oh! Oh! Monsieur--if you knew--the sorrow in which I live--in what
sorrow.
"Once I was happy. I have a house down there--a home. I cannot go
back to it any more; I shall never go back to it again, it is too
hard to bear.
"I have a son. It is he! it is he! Children don't know. Oh, one has
such a short time to live! If I should see him now I should perhaps
not recognize him. How I loved him? How I loved him! Even before he
was born, when I felt him move. And after that! How I have kissed
and caressed and cherished him! If you knew how many nights I have
passed in watching him sleep, and how many in thinking of him. I was
crazy about him. When he was eight years old his father sent him to
boarding-school. That was the end. He no longer belonged to me. Oh,
heavens! He came to see me every Sunday. That was all!
"He went to college in Paris. Then he came only four times a year,
and every time I was astonished to see how he had changed, to find
him taller without having seen him grow. They stole his childhood
from me, his confidence, and his love which otherwise would not have
gone away from me; they stole my joy in seeing him grow, in seeing
him become a little man.
"I saw him four times a year. Think of it! And at every one of his
visits his body, his eye, his movements, his voice his laugh, were
no longer the same, were no longer mine. All these things change so
quickly in a child; and it is so sad if one is not there to see them
change; one no longer recognizes him.
"One year he came with down on his cheek! He! my son! I was
dumfounded --would you believe it? I hardly dared to kiss him. Was
it really he, my little, little curly head of old, my dear; dear
child, whom I had held in his diapers or my knee, and who had nursed
at my breast with his little greedy lips--was it he, this tall,
brown boy, who no longer knew how to kiss me, who seemed to love me
as a matter of duty, who called me 'mother' for the sake of
politeness, and who kissed me on the forehead, when I felt like
crushing him in my arms?
"My husband died. Then my parents, and then my two sisters. When
Death enters a house it seems as if he were hurrying to do his
utmost, so as not to have to return for a long time after that. He
spares only one or two to mourn the others.
"I remained alone. My tall son was then studying law. I was hoping
to live and die near him, and I went to him so that we could live
together. But he had fallen into the ways of young men, and he gave
me to understand that I was in his way. So I left. I was wrong in
doing so, but I suffered too much in feeling myself in his way, I,
his mother! And I came back home.
"I hardly ever saw him again.
'He married. What a joy! At last we should be together for good. I
should have grandchildren. His wife was an Englishwoman, who took a
dislike to me. Why? Perhaps she thought that I loved him too much.
"Again I was obliged to go away. And I was alone. Yes, monsieur.
"Then he went to England, to live with them, with his wife's
parents. Do you understand? They have him--they have my son for
themselves. They have stolen him from me. He writes to me once a
month. At first he came to see me. But now he no longer comes.
"It is now four years since I saw him last. His face then was
wrinkled and his hair white. Was that possible? This man, my son,
almost an old man? My little rosy child of old? No doubt I shall
never see him again.
"And so I travel about all the year. I go east and west, as you see,
with no companion.
"I am like a lost dog. Adieu, monsieur! don't stay here with me for
it hurts me to have told you all this."
I went down the hill, and on turning round to glance back, I saw the
old woman standing on a broken wall, looking out upon the mountains,
the long valley and Lake Chambon in the distance.
And her skirt and the queer little shawl which she wore around her
thin shoulders were fluttering like a flag in the wind.